Sunday, May 29, 2005

Je m'allonge


I can sense that people are coming and going around me, mais je m'allonge. They make their comments. Some love me. They love my look, my manner, the stillness that is me. Others are irritated by me. I don't conform to their image. I'm too cool to the touch. But what am I to do? I am as I have been made. C'est tout.

Friday, May 20, 2005

Fall Fashion Show


C'est la mode!

Mannequin Helen Dang presenting the fall line of Yves Saint Laurent

Monday, May 16, 2005

The Pope Conquers Paris


Passion knows no limits. Having my mom in Paris to sign the papers to amend my birth records was essential in establishing my residency here. Afterall, who is going to come against the Pope!!!

Paris in eight hours. Eight hours of walking and touring per day is nothing for a woman of 81 if she is my mother. Eight hours out of the apartment. Eight hours of walking and climbing and shopping. Eight hours of metro taking and meal munching. Eight hours is a lot of time! My shoes will need retreading soon, but not the Pope's. She doesn't walk, she glides. Several times I had to beg her to slow down. Please, there is a human at your side trying to pace herself with your winged feet!

Read the photos, we were everywhere with everyone. En plus, quand elle etait a Paris, elle a tout compris en francais. Elle est incroyable!

Saturday, May 14, 2005

The Pope is in Paris!!!



The Pope is in Paris

The mystery is in the taking,
dreamt,
realized,
not imagined or fantasized,
the Pope conquers Paris.

Wednesday, May 11, 2005

Virtually Unaware

On occasion I blog. For me its a personal journal; its my way of remembering. So I reflect and I write, I even click the word 'publish'. That's it. I go back to living.

Publish: To bring to the public attention; announce. oh! Is that what that button does?? It annouces and brings public attention to my private life? Who in their right mind would do such a thing!!!?

Ah but for the voyeur and the exhibitionist, its a nice game of cat and mouse. The mouse writes her blog, the cat watches, slowly swishing its tail as it scans words and photos to discern the next move of this silly mouse who broadcasts its moves. Then POUNCE! AH, hah! Gotcha!

I had the craziest sensation this week. I'm talking about something that had happened and the response is ,"..yes yes, I saw that. Is that the time when you.." What?? ohhhh yeah! You read it on my blog! Yikes! Virtual travel. But that's what blogs are for! to share reflections and thoughts. ..and that's my reflection, I had been virtually unaware of those silent readers who travel with me. So if you are joining me, join me, blog me :) J'ai envie de te lire.


Food XXX

un gout..a taste
des bruits...mmmmm of approval
c'est ca
c'est food porn :)

Tuesday, May 10, 2005

Les Animaux Savage a Boulogne


A MAGICAL DAY in the parc de Boulogne. Ramin was leaving in a couple days so it was a good time to visit the parc about 15 minutes away from my apt. I had already visited it with Marcella so I was ready to take pictures of the endless shades of green. But I wasn't prepared for all the little surprises that were waiting to spring themselves on us.

When we got to the park I saw a cat in the distance. I couldnt believe my eyes when it started bounding towards us!!! It greeted both Ramin and I as if to welcome us to HER park and then she laid down in the sun , oblivious to the fact that she was a cat and her owner was at least 50 paces away. Curious!

The weather was delicious and we made friends with the friendliest of trees. There was the yellow/green one which seemed to have butterflies clinging to her trunk. And the tallest green one with the long arms (Ramin climbed that one) , and the elegant one that seemed content to stretch her arms out much wider than she was tall. We felt pretty lucky and then Ramin spotted a bunny hopping around..what!!!

After that he spotted a turtle on a rock in the water next to the wood that looked like a dinosaur! Nature was everywhere!!!! We got pretty excited about that until we saw the badger like animal with all the ducks and pigeons in the water. Well we THOUGHT it was a badger. It was big and hairy,lived in the water and ate with two hands but eeeek with a skinny tail . Ahh, a nice fat, french water rat who likes baguettes! But why was he holding it so high in the air while he ate? We watched, facinated as a lady was doling out baguettes to the wild life. There seemed to be more than ducks and pigeons vying for the bread morcels. All of a sudden Ramin was pointing and yelling..hey did you see that?? no, over there THAT..wow..yeah.!!

The leaps and swirls were getting closer to Monsieur Rat! We could see then that bread in the water was fair game for these monster fish who would slap the water with the sides of their bodies as they leaped for bread!!!

Fais attention! Il y a des animaux savages a Boulogne!!!

Monday, May 09, 2005

Euro Disney Here We Come!!!


DISNEYLAND!!!!! I had wanted to go. Everyone I know in Paris is just too french to go to Disneyland or too poor to pay. I went online and tried to figure out the logistics before starting to beg someone to go. 40 euro to enter (52 dollars) and 12 euro for the train and yeah, thats it, NOBODY can go at those prices!!! How about free? Would you go for free????

I really thought it would be cool to go to a 'french' disneyland but the chances looked pretty impossible. Then I met Jenny. She is from germany and a friend of Inka's. She came over to my apt for dinner one night and I mentioned how I would love to go to D-land..hint hint. To my surprise she said yes! I would love to go!

What? a poor student from germany thinks she can afford this? Then she said the magic words. "And if we go, we can get in for free because I live with people who work there!!!?

WHHHAAAATTTT? yeah dude lets GO! So shortly after that she gave me a call and soon, Inka, Ramin, and I were like the happy winners of some kids dream vacation. As usual with france, just getting there can be the ADVENTURE!

Taking a train to Disneyland gave me the lesson I had been avoiding. Going to Taverny was crazy, but this time I wasn't alone. Inka has an internal antenna. While Ramin and I were still staring blindly at the destination board, Inka was quickly directing our traffice, "over there, no not that one, right direction , but then it doesnt go to our stop. Here, our train comes here!" What? How she deciferred all that from the snarl of names on that board, I'll never know. She gives you the impression she had done this before..nope, it was the first time.

Jenny' is the houseguest of musicians who have been performing in Disney's frontierland for about 10 years now. As we were waiting for Jenny at the station I heard a nice flow of words enter my ear. "So you are Jenny's friends! I saw the three of you looking a bit lost and knew you were the ones. Come on, I'm the one who will get you in!" Wow, that british accented english is sure easy on the ears :) We chatted a bit and in we were. Look at the pictures. We were soooo excited! We ran everywhere , rode Space Mountain 3 times in a row at first. We mourned the fact that the park would soon be closed at 8pm. We only had 7 hours to go!!! But just as telling, look at the last picture..ohhh we were exhausted and ended up leaving at 7pm, too tired to scurry about, but content that we had a beautiful day to spend at a wonderful park with the best of playmates.

Sunday, May 08, 2005


Ils sont rive droite, nouveux riche, pas de classe. Ils sont debout sur la table! Mais ca va, car ils m'ont partage une bouteille de champagne!

Saturday, May 07, 2005

A Sleepover in Taverny


Meet Max, mon professeur. Max is 22 and pretty much one of the best french teachers around. Another one of my friends on yahoo (he hates having his picture taken). He is young and bright and quite fluent in english, loves french grammar and is the most patient person I know. He refuses to speak english with me and corrects my every fault. He is not actually a teacher. He works with computers. His father is a nose for Hermes. He lives in a house over a hundred years old. But most of all, he is my wonderfully patient teacher. Thanks Max!

He invited me pour se balader dans le foret de Taverny. This is an invitation for a walk, a common activity here in paris...its like going to the movies or to the mall. But the real adventure is getting there. Taverny is a little town just outside of paris. There are many modern suburbs just outside the city, but Taverny is a old village with narrow cobbled roads and little taverns and restaurants. Its forest is just next to the homes and begins behind the church cemetary. But first I must find the train to Taverny.

I arrived at la gare du nord where trains depart for all the cities in France and in fact Europe. There are three main train lines, sncf, rer, and transilien. The latter is a type of RER but for local towns. At the train station, even locals get lost. There are trains going everywhere, in addition to the metro and local traffic, people are traveling to other cities and other countries. You do not want to get on the wrong train!

For those of you who have not ridden the trains of france, you might assume that this really isnt a problem. No ticket, no ride! No, not really! In fact you can get on any train. The problem only arises if you get checked for a ticket!!! Sometimes you can ride a train all the way to Nice and never get checked! So that means anyone can board the trains which will then leave promptly to the minute. If you are one the wrong train, you will discover it LATER!!!

Okay, so first I had to find the correct line of trains..RER, SNCF, TRANSILIAN..they are all together..there are ticket stations, electronic ticket booths and me. The station is huge. And I am thinking this is a very bad idea. Leona, what are you doing? You are sooooo lost! Your french really sucks and you are such a chicken.

I finally spot the transilian sign. I try the electronic ticket machine cuz I dont really want to stand in the monster lines and explain where I am trying to go. Taverny is difficult to find on a map. Its not a destination point and I don't even know how to pronounce it. Ouf!

It's also difficult to find out WHICH particular train goes to Taverny because its just a stop on the way to somewhere else and there are plenty of trains going to the same final destination but through different villages. THIS is REALLY tough!!!!!

I buy my ticket at 50% discount. Why? Why not?!! I was given a choice..buy it at 100% or 50%..wouldnt you chose the discount? lol

I have my one way discounted ticket and now I have to find the train. THAT one leaves in 1 minute! I jump on. I ask this guy..Excusez moi, mais, ce train va a Taverny?..He replies..quoi? desole, je ne comprends pas...je ne sais pas bien ces trains..peut-etre vous pouvez demander quelqu'un d'autre la bas.

Oh non..I have one minute to decide. I run around a bit then jump off. Oh non! I run around a bit more then find some official train employees. Like all the french, they are casually chatting oblivous to the fact that they are at work! ahh, Excusez moi mais je cherche le train qui va a Taverny? Pourriez-vous m'aider? Je suis un peu perdue!!! Ahh, he replies..vous cherchez Taverny..je ne suis pas sur...he walks about, unconcerned..ah c'est la, voila. Then I ask, mais il va partir a quelle heure? ..bientot, he replies.

This is not very reasurring. There is NOTHING on the sign that says Taverny. ouff..I can picture myself spending the weekend on trains going wh

Wednesday, May 04, 2005


The first of May is a very special day in France. People everywhere walk around with a little sprig of spring..a few leaves and something that looks like a lily. Marco brings me a bouquet of them. Merci!

Par la fenetre oubliee...


On dessine, on mange, on y va! Sometimes we get lucky. I'm not a lucky person and I spend a lot of my time standing in the longest line. But sometimes I'm so much more than lucky. I climb up creaky, unstable ladders, moves boxes, pry open a window long forgotten and then voila...a whole new world to look into!

I have had some awesome experiences in Paris, things I didnt know enough to hope for. But this night was more like an awesome priviledge. In the photos above, are a bunch of old friends. Ancien amis, we say in french. And in this case it really fits because they have known each other for years. They are all in the arts. They are actors, musicians, artists, and lovers of the best things in life.

For me the story began when I met Christian online on yahoo chat. (He is the one eating dessert and looking at his cel phone.) He told me that he was a comedian and liked to draw its about all I knew about him. The first time we met in person was after seeing him perform in the play called the Circle of Liars. When Chris found out I was in Paris, he immediately offered me tickets. I had no idea how talented he was or how lucky I was to meet someone in the arts in Paris. pinch me.

At the dinner after the show, I met Chris' friends. One of them is an artist. A successful artist in Paris. He heard that I like to paint and invited me to attend a class at his home. That evening I met Claud's girlfriend Annette, and it was she who invited me to the Palais Royal, the home of all the finest plays performed in Paris. Don't pinch me, I don't want to wake up.

The class was held at Claud's loft. I love it when I tell others who live in paris about this. When one says LOFT in paris, it says a lot. Money, success, someone special. I dont know about the first two, but certainly Claud is a unique balance of artist and teacher and friend.

I began the night watching the door open to his loft/apt. It is 3 stories and one enters from the top. You make your way down spiral stairs that stop at each floor. There is a kitchen, and perhaps some room over there, painting and frames are hung and stacked in a very orderly fashion. But as I continued to descend, I could see that I was actually coming to the main floor which is 3 stories down. Once there I looked up. The middle of the loft is empty, meaning that you can see from the bottom floor, all the way up to the ceiling...wow. Music was drifting about, wonderfully sensual music, french and sometimes spanish. There were about 6 others there, arranging there tools and chatting quietly.

Easels were standing waiting for a dance partner so I chose one. I felt a bit silly. Easels are for artists. I have painted for maybe 2 months in my life. I have never done sketches with charcol and eraser. And I certainly am not an artist in PARIS! I have no idea how I got this chance but I decided to just do a lot of deep breathing. The setting was simply wonderful...I thought, "I am standing inside of the scene of a movie."

There is a bit of discussion, a phone call, a door opens and down the spiral staircase comes a very attractive..very pretty french woman. She quickly says her apologies with a smile and exits into the side office. Christian has brought the supplies for me. I am using his huge sketch pad, like the ones you see artists hauling around in those big flat black bags. He has given me chrarcol-like pieces...thin and small, almost too small to hold, an eraser, a dirty old rag, thats it. I make beauty from this? But then I open his sketch book and I see. Wonderful forms a wash with emotion. The bodies are beautiful and touchable. Any of them would be worthy of my livingroom. I love it! 10 minutes. What? Yes, we do these sketches in 10 minutes he tells me. No! We? Here? Now? Yes..look for the weight of the body, find the shape.

My fakeness is beginning to swirl in my head. Oh my gawd. And then it begins.

The lights are shining down on us from 3 stories above, bright but not piercing. The music creates a mood of serenity with energy. The beautiful, flawless french woman appears on a very small stage in front of us. She is wearing a hat ( chapeau) and a short black velevet jacket , stocking that are dark purple that cling to the top of her thighs...and nothing else. She strikes a pose.

We begin. This is crazy, I don't know how, I have never done this, not ever on a paper this big or with a piece of chalk this small, or with such little time! My list of excuses for failure is growing in my head. And then I hear a voice, "DIX MINUTES! COMMENCONS!"

I do begin. And throughout the night I hear the music and I press in. Changez! Its another pose. Cette fois 7 minutes! Changez! Cette fois 5 minutes! Allez, n'oubliez pas la direction de la lumiere! And it continued, Claud on ocassion would remind us of the time ( 2 minutes, c'est tout!) or reminded us to look for the weight of the body or the direction of the light..forget the details..just see what is there. Very sweetly he says very little to me..let the child play with her crayons!

After 40 minute I am past exhausted. My brain is swirling. Its been very intense. We have been sketching, then flipping pages and sketching and smearing and erasing. The man next to me is creating INCREDIBLE work. The art found in stores is dead and ugly compared to what I see being created here, in minutes..its amazing.

A tray appears. The model has her coat on. She is chatting with Christian. We are drinking orange juice, water and wine. There are some chips to snack on. I'm relieved. It was intense but finally its over. The juice is refreshing and I am still in a dream state.

Actually, that was the intermission. The class resumed a few minute later and I something in my brains said...I think I can do this!

The evening ended with kind good-bye and an invitation to return. I was content to return home and stew in the experience. But what about dinner? I'm asked. Well , um, sure! I had ten euro in my pocket ( about 13 dollars) and thats enough to have a cup of coffee and dessert if you are lucky.

Chris left to take the model home. I am with Jeff, thats me with him in the photo. He is an engineer, oversees constructions of buildings. We are walking and talking. I have no idea where we are going. Its interesting to spend time with old friends. They have their routines, everything is natural. I am in paris, with my beginners french, with old timers. Its quite a mix.

We are walking to the restaurant! Ah, no cars needed! Its italian, I see they are well known and welcome here! The waiters are great. We are like private guests. Magically everyone appears within minutes; you can see them all in the pictures.

The meal was incredible. Although I carefully ordered what I could afford, pasta carbonara, the rest ordered the FORMULE. When you are in paris its the way to order, like the daily special. The formule will have a fixed price and a fixed meal, appetizer (l'entree) main dish (le plat) and dessert ( same in every language! lol). For 16 euro (20.00 dollars) they had a huge salad..a plate decorated with salted fish (like smoked salmon) and every kind of fresh lettuce, tomatoes etc. It was delicious!!! ( If I have a fork, I will eat your food!) Next was the HUGE STEAK that filled the plate, and a baked veggie dish ( des legumes), and then finally dessert. The food, the conversation, it was a wonderful time of relaxation. I am sitting there with my little american self thinking.....look, I'm here, I'm Alice in wonderland. I am sitting at a table with gifted artists and actors and friends. wow.

The evening finally ends around midnight at the resto. I'm not allowed to pay, je suis invitee! They are making arrangements for tomorrow's tennis game. They play everyday. And I think, they PLAY every day!

Tuesday, May 03, 2005


ON MANGE!!!! Perhaps the most incredible meal...we ate for hours..everyone cooked. We began with hummus. When the lid opened, everyone in the kitchen sat down immediately TO EAT. hey..go cook..no, lets eat and then cook!!! It was great. We ate and cooked and cooked and then ate. The melange of styles and dishes couldn't have flowed together more perfectly. Ramin who loves to cook made a dish of shredded carrots, cooked then mixed with yogurt..the taste was sweet and subtle, he also made roasted peeled red peppers with olive oil...ahhhhhh succulent! Inka made coucous with vine rippened tomatoes, mint, feta, dark olives, the taste was LOVE...we finished with thai green chili with coconut milk, eggplant and chicken, over fragrant jasmine rice and fresh cut chilies for Ramin and I...yeah!!! and of course finished with chocolat noir et de l'expresso...C'est si bon!

PIGALE!! ooohhh yeahh...

CA ROULE MA POULE!! Top left is the prof from Alliance Francaise..yeah we actually met at the club on the dance floor!! Incroyable! There you see it..the food, the walk the dance..even the chickens in Paris sont a la mode!